Château de Gudanes: A Magical French Fairytale Castle

If you read my last blog, “Healed by France: An Unexpected Trip Restored My Peace,” then you already know how two whirlwind days in Paris set the stage for a deeply transformative experience. After helping two of my dearest friends, Kim and Ryan, soak up the Parisian magic, it was time to venture further south for the chapter of our trip that had been in the works for over a year: our stay at the legendary Château de Gudanes.

All Aboard: From Paris to Toulouse

After 48 magical, exhausting hours in Paris, it was time to head south to Toulouse. I had pre-booked our double-decker train tickets on the SNCF Connect site about three months in advance, and luckily, Kim and I snagged a cozy table for two facing each other on the top of the train, which we had read would have the best views for our 4 hour trip to the south of France. The total cost for both of us was about $350.

Despite our sleep-deprived state, we managed to make time to visit the onboard café. There, we clinked glasses of wine, nibbled on simple French snacks, and eventually drifted off to sleep. That train ride, through the picturesque French countryside, felt like a beautiful exhale after our Paris sprint.

We used Calypso Transport for transfers to and from the train station. A huge shout-out to Hotel Britannique, who helped us find our stumped driver when the Olympic road closures turned Paris into a maze! Unbeknownst to us, when we booked the trip, the 2024 Olympics were scheduled to begin just days after we arrived in Paris. The city was primed for all eyes to be on her, but also for an excess of people she wasn’t used to. This worked out well in some ways and created unexpected challenges in others. She had never shined like she did now; clean streets and a pristine river, but armed guards on every corner and roads blocked that made transportation a little more challenging. Nonetheless, we made it to our train station, but were thankful for the surprisingly friendly Parisians who helped us arrive there. 

The Anticipation: A Year in the Making

This wasn’t just any vacation; this was a dream trip booked over a year in advance. In the months leading up to our stay, the Château de Gudanes team masterfully built anticipation with a series of enchanting touches. Handwritten postcards with aged paper and calligraphy, custom luggage tags adorned with the château’s address, and charmingly sporadic emails gave us glimpses of what was to come. Each little surprise reminded us that something extraordinary was waiting for us in the south of France.

And now, the moment had finally arrived. This was, without question, the most I had ever invested in a single vacation, but it was an all-inclusive experience unlike any other. Every meal was crafted by Michelin-trained chefs, drinks (both spirited and not) flowed freely, and all tours, excursions, and even kayaking through the Pyrenees were part of the package. But truly, how do you put a price on something that feeds your soul? This was my hard-earned money at work, not for things, but for beauty, joy, and the kind of deep, soul-stirring happiness that only an experience like this can bring. 

Welcome to Toulouse: A Golden First Impression

Upon arrival in Toulouse, we checked into Grand Hôtel de l’Opéra, a property carefully selected and recommended by Château de Gudanes itself. Nestled in the heart of the city, the hotel was surrounded by shimmering gold streamers dancing across the town square and Michelin-starred restaurants.

The French have a phrase, “l’art de vivre,” which means “the art of living,” and that’s exactly what this place embodied.

Dinner With Strangers Turned Friends

That evening, we met the other future château guests and the owners of the château for dinner at L’Entrecôte, where steak and frites are the only thing on the menu, and that’s all you need. The dessert? A charming little scoop of ice cream that hinted we were about to enjoy something truly sweet this week

Day One: Arriving at Château de Gudanes

The next morning, we all clambered into two large vans, 18 strangers from across the world, united by a love for beauty, history, and adventure.

An hour and fifteen minutes later, as we drove through sunflower fields and tiny meadows, Karina (the château’s owner) and her daughter Jasmine suddenly stopped the vans and said, “We think it’s special to walk up to the château.”

And oh, was it ever.

We stepped onto a gravel road, wildflowers lining the path, and within moments, the château appeared in the distance; regal, romantic, and framed by the Pyrenees Mountains. Large teal shutters flanked the wide open windows. Two stone staircases led up to the towering front doors. As we reached the ancient double gates, gasps, wide eyes, and pure awe filled the air.

When the gates opened, elegant music began to play. The front doors swung open, two dogs came bounding down to greet us, and the entire staff stood smiling, ready to welcome us with champagne in vintage glasses and delicate macarons.

Inside, the scent of old stone mixed with fresh flowers. Cold, fortress-like walls surrounded us in the grand foyer, where a rebuilt stone spiral staircase twisted upward under a glowing antique chandelier, its tall branches lit with real, flickering candles. We had stepped into another world.

Tears welled up in more than one guest’s eyes, mine included. This was the dream made real. We had all taken a chance. Putting down large deposits on a simple Instagram page of stunning photos. With high hopes, this place was real, all of us reveled in the sheer magic and thrill that it was more than real. And we were here together, to enjoy our lives together learning, making new memories and new friends in one of the most beautiful places I’d ever seen in my life. 

The Château’s Story: A Hidden Treasure with Royal Roots

Karina Waters, the visionary behind Château de Gudanes, originally came to France from Australia with her family, simply searching for a small vacation cottage. But as fate would have it, her son stumbled upon an online listing that changed everything: a crumbling, historic château nestled in the French Pyrenees. At the time, the estate had 94 rooms, though only a handful were accessible due to collapsed floors, overgrown vegetation, and decades of neglect. Now lovingly restored to around 50 usable rooms, the château has become a living, breathing masterpiece of history and heart. For the past 13 years, the family has poured their lives into preserving this treasure, maintaining its 18th-century charm while carefully adding modern-day comforts. Their work, together as a family, supported in part by experiences like our “Seven Starry Nights” stay, has brought new life to a property built by the same architect who designed parts of Versailles. 

But what truly makes this place extraordinary is its lineage. Château de Gudanes was designed by none other than Ange-Jacques Gabriel, the principal architect to King Louis XV. Gabriel was a legend in his own right — he succeeded his father as Premier Architecte du Roi in 1742 and held the position for most of Louis XV’s reign. His works include some of France’s most iconic landmarks:

• Petit Trianon, Versailles
• L’Opéra at Château de Versailles
• L’École Militaire, Paris
• Place de la Concorde (formerly Place Louis XV)
• Hôtel de la Marine and Hôtel de Crillon, both on Place de la Concorde

To walk the halls of Château de Gudanes is to walk through architectural history, not just a home, but a heartbeat of 18th-century France. And now, through the Waters family’s dedication and retreats like Seven Starry Nights, the château continues its legacy — not as a museum, but as a living, breathing sanctuary.

Home for the Week: The Marie Antoinette Room

During our tour, Karina revealed each guest’s room one by one during our introductory tour of the chateau. Kim and I were given the front room known as the Marie Antoinette Room, with tall ceilings, antique furniture, open shuttered windows, and remnants of 1800s wallpaper. And yes,  no A/C. 😅 But thankfully, I packed travel fans from Amazon that saved the day, and the large windows proved perfect for letting me have the cool breeze from the Pyrenees Mountains.

On our beds sat a full itinerary for the week and a floral bag of French goodies; on the itinerary, everything from corsage making, antique shopping, cooking classes, grocery runs with Michelin-trained chefs, and more. We were officially in heaven.

A Culinary Dream

One of the most delightful surprises of our stay? The meals. Each dish was a masterpiece, thoughtfully prepared by chefs from around the world and plated with the kind of elegance you usually only see in magazines. We savored delicate quiches, vibrant garden salads, decadent pastries, and so much more, all bursting with fresh flavor and visual charm. Every meal felt like an experience in itself, enjoyed in a different room of the château each day, often by candlelight and surrounded by antique porcelain and seasonal florals. At the heart of it all was Tracy Valentina Wood, the head chef and a professional food stylist whose artistry elevated each meal beyond anything I could’ve imagined. From garnishing with garden-fresh blooms to using thyme sprigs, mint leaves, and powdered sugar like edible decor, she turned simple ingredients into works of art. The presentation was so stunning, I found myself pausing to admire the detail before even picking up my fork. ✨

Daily Breakfasts & Village Life

Every morning began with a stunning display of freshly made jams, warm breads, quiches, and mimosas. All lit by candlelight in different rooms of the château. For instance, on Day One, we had breakfast in the Salon de Porcelaine, where large chandeliers were adorned with branches and fresh florals, and our coffee was served in exquisite 1800s porcelain. Open windows looked out over the gardens, and each table held fresh-cut blooms.

We dined together most mornings, sharing stories and laughter with our new companions. Of the 18 guests, only one was a man; the rest were women from all over the U.S.: Oklahoma, Kansas, Florida, New York, and Pennsylvania; all drawn by a shared love for food, beauty, and a little magic.

Some days, we wandered into the nearby village of Les Cabannes, where we shopped for produce with the chefs or enjoyed a glass of wine while locals played music nearby. The village life added such a soulful texture to the trip.

Daily Highlights from the Château

🥐 Day Two: Cooking Classes, Jam Making, & Garden Picnic

• Morning: Cooking class with Chef Tracy: sweet and savory madeleines made from scratch in the château kitchen.

• Afternoon: Garden picnic in the château jardin; a dreamy lunch under the sun.
• Jam and syrup making class with Pastry Chef Jennifer Pogmore, watching her precise techniques in the basement kitchen.
• Evening: Apéritifs and cheese boards in the salon, opera music softly echoing through candlelight.

🎻 Day Three: Crepes, Mirepoix Market & Movie Magic

• Morning: Jen’s crepe cart served up hot, fresh crepes for breakfast.
• Midday: Antique and produce shopping at the 1500s village market in Mirepoix.

• Dinner: Inspired by Marie Antoinette and held in the historic Salon de Musique, once gilded in 24-karat gold.

• Evening: Cozy film night with Kirsten Dunst’s Marie Antoinette, watched while sipping fresh French hot chocolate with Baileys.
• Special Surprise: Staff dressed in period costumes, dancing and pouring champagne, the night we truly bonded.

🕊️ Day Four: Fresco Restoration & Sunset Dining

• Restoration class with Jasmine in Salon de Printemps: uncovering frescoes hidden beneath Revolutionary-era plaster.

• Learning the history of concealment post-revolution.
• Sunset dinner at Le Clos Cathala, overlooking the majestic Pyrenees.

🥖 Day Five: Caves, Garden Tour & Tablescaping

• Morning: Guests toured Grotte de Niaux, a prehistoric cave with 17,000-year-old paintings (I stayed behind due to my tailbone injury).
• Lunch: Classic baguette lunch followed by a garden tour with Karina, who explained the painstaking work to restore the landscape authentically.

• Afternoon: Dessert decorating workshop and tablescaping in preparation for evening festivities.

🕯️ Day Six: Nailloux, Tea Time & Edgar Allan Poe in the Basement

• Morning: Antique shopping in Nailloux, searching for hidden treasures.
• Afternoon: 18th-century-inspired tea service in the gardens.

• Dinner: Informal meal prepared in the château kitchen.
• Evening: A dramatic candlelit group reading of Poe’s The Black Cat in the château’s underground cellar. One candle, one voice at a time, thrilling and unforgettable.

🛶 Day Seven: Kayaking the Pyrenees & A Grand Finale

• Morning: Kayaking through the Pyrenees; a breathtaking, restorative experience.
• Personal note: My tailbone had healed enough to join (with a towel for padding!).
• Evening: Farewell disco-themed party in the château, complete with dancing, laughter, and heartfelt goodbyes.

Saying Goodbye

We hugged, cried, exchanged numbers, shipped home French antiques, and vowed never to forget this once-in-a-lifetime experience. Returning to real life was tough; there were no apéritifs, no candlelit breakfast tables, and no spontaneous opera songs in secret rooms.

But we brought something back with us: a slower pace, a heart full of beauty, and new friends for life. And now, when I think of France, I don’t just think of Paris, I think of Château de Gudanes. A place that changed me. Changed my friends. Brought us closer.

If you’re dreaming of a once-in-a-lifetime journey, this might be your sign. Book the trip. Take the leap. As the French say…

“L’art de vivre.” ✨

Au revoir, until next time…
Tiffany