Pursuit of Fresh Maine Lobster: A Coastal Road Trip Through Bar Harbor, Camden & Portland
Maine had been on my travel bucket list for years, and this summer, I finally made it happen. Crisp air, postcard-worthy harbors, and enough lobster to make your heart (and stomach) happy. After planning this trip for nearly three years during my cancer treatment, it felt surreal to finally arrive. From lobster feasts in Bar Harbor to sailboat rides in Camden and live music nights in Portland, this five-day adventure was everything I hoped it would be and more.
Planning Ahead: Flights, Hotels & Cars
We booked our hotels 6–8 months in advance, which turned out to be essential. By the time I checked availability a couple of weeks before the trip, rooms were scarce and prices were nearly a third higher. Lesson learned: Maine summers are no joke when it comes to tourism.
Flying into Portland International Jetport (PWM) was a breeze. It’s a small, traveler-friendly airport only about 15 minutes from downtown. Many hotels nearby offer free shuttles, which makes the last leg of travel stress-free. For the driving we would do, we decided that having our own easily accessible transportation was key to this vacation. I swear by the Turo app. It’s like Airbnb, but for cars. For scenic drives and breezy weather, I always opt for something fun, such as convertibles, Jeeps, or this time, a Mini Cooper. Fiats are another favorite. The car is dropped right at the airport with the keys tucked into a lockbox for easy pickup. Quick photo check-in via the app, and you’re off. Returning is just as easy. Bonus: the coastal views feel even better with the top down.
And don’t forget the road trip essentials: I always stock up on spring water bottles at gas stations, then store them in a collapsible cooler that fits in my carry-on. If I can, I freeze a bottle overnight to keep everything cold the next day.
💡 Fun note: A friend recently taught me that it’s better to buy spring water instead of purified water. Why? Purified water strips out most of the natural minerals and nutrients, and while some are added back, it’s never quite the same. Spring water keeps those minerals intact, so you’re staying hydrated and giving your body a little more of the good stuff.
Packing Notes
For a five-day trip with three hotel changes, we packed all in carry-ons: one hard suitcase and one Tumi bag. Lightweight, easy to maneuver, and no stress about lost luggage. Who wants to carefully plan cute outfits just to have them delayed? Not me.
Bar Harbor & Acadia National Park: Popovers, Horses & Thunder
After landing, we drove about 3.5 hours north to Bar Harbor, where we stayed the first two nights at Atlantic Oceanside Hotel & Event Center. It was right on the water, with walk-out patios, Adirondack chairs sprinkled across the grounds, wildflower-lined sidewalks, and even boat tours leaving directly from the property. Mornings came with complimentary breakfast, eggs, fruit, flatbreads, muffins, and even a build-your-own trail mix bar (perfect for all the hikers Maine attracts).
That first evening, starving after a long travel day, we strolled into the adorable downtown Bar Harbor for lobster rolls at the Thirsty Whale Tavern, which was generously packed with meat and running about $35–40 each. I paired mine with a Maine blueberry THC seltzer (yes, blueberries are a big deal here). Delicious doesn’t even cover it. A perfect first night in Maine.
Acadia National Park was the highlight of this portion of the trip. Thanks to my travel partner’s senior national park pass, admission was nearly free, a huge savings. Our first full day started with free lobby coffee before heading to Acadia National Park’s Loop Road. The drive alone is stunning, with sapphire-blue waters, sailboats with crisp white sails, and rocky coastlines begging to be photographed. The air was fresh, cool, and pine-scented, no fishy smell here despite the harbors. Clear skies dotted with puffy white clouds made everything picture-perfect. Honestly, it felt like the travel gods were smiling down, or maybe my mom.
Jordan’s Pond House
Lunch was at the iconic Jordan’s Pond House, and it was everything I hoped for. With no reservation, we somehow ended up with the best seat in the house: a picnic table on the lawn, shaded by umbrellas, overlooking the pond, mountains, and wildflowers. We had about a 45-minute wait before being seated, but it didn’t feel like wasted time at all. This is the perfect window to stroll the trails, soak in the mountain views, and admire the wildflowers surrounding the property. They’re famous for their legendary popovers (crispy on the outside, soft and warm on the inside), and you can even snag one while you wait thanks to the tents they’ve set up outside for pre-lunch snacks. They are even served with fresh butter and jam, which makes them even more delicious. A word of warning: the bees love them too. They hovered and landed on forks and plates but weren’t aggressive. My granddad used to keep bees, so for me it felt more nostalgic than scary.
The view of Jordan Pond is postcard-perfect, with hiking trails weaving around the water. We ordered fresh steamed lobster alongside the popovers, which made this lunch one of the most memorable meals of the trip.
Other Acadia Highlights
- Beehive Trail – Not for the faint of heart. A “hard” hike where you climb iron rungs bolted into the cliffs. I skipped it this time but vowed to return.
- Wildwood Stables – They offer one- or two-hour horse-drawn carriage rides through land once owned by the Roosevelts. We didn’t ride, but enjoyed watching the massive draft horses gear up.
- Mount Desert Island – Here, we collected oyster shells and rocks streaked with opal and purple tones.
- Cadillac Mountain – We skipped it due to time, but you can reserve a $6 timed entry online to drive up and catch sweeping views of Acadia
That evening, we walked around downtown Bar Harbor; quiet streets, cozy shops, historic homes, and a surprising find at the Ivy Manor Inn, where Adirondack chairs circled firepits while a guitarist played. It was the perfect pre-dinner moment with a glass of wine in hand.
Dinner was at Stewman’s Lobster Pound right on the marina. We split the shellfish sampler (delicious!) and a lobster roll, but found the crab a little lacking in flavor compared to the thriving lobster meals. Still, sitting outside overlooking the boats made it well worth it.
Camden: Sailboats & Small-Town Charm
The next day, we grabbed gluten-free muffins and coffee from the Atlantic Oceanside and hit the road in our Mini Cooper. The 2-hour drive to Camden included scenic detours:
- Castine – One of the oldest towns in New England (settled 1613), with elm-lined streets and homes from the 18th and 19th centuries. Landscaping was gorgeous; hydrangeas, wildflowers, and sunpatiens everywhere.
- Belfast – A quaint harbor town where we had lunch at Nautilus Seafood. French onion soup and “lazy man’s lobster” (already shelled, drenched in butter) made for a perfect meal.
In Camden, we had booked a sail with the Schooner Lazy Jack. Captain Gus and First Mate Zach ran a smooth, scenic trip along the coast. We brought along brie & toasted bread we had snagged from Nautilus Seafood earlier, as well as wine, and spring water packed in my trusty cooler. Starting at 2:30, we sailed for two hours, past lighthouses and yachts, with the wind in our hair and the sun sparkling on the water. Pure serenity. At one point, we even spotted a $33 million yacht and a $27 million racing sailing boat gliding through the harbor, proof that Camden draws in some serious nautical showstoppers. $117 well spent.
That evening, we checked into the Grand Harbor Inn, our favorite stay of the trip. Room 7 sat on the corner, with a patio overlooking the harbor and the schooners departing below. Camden itself buzzed with a lobster festival, complete with dog water races, live music, and more lobster than anyone could finish.
Later that night, I ducked into Cuzzy’s Bar & Grill for a burger, where the upstairs was alive and packed with locals unwinding after long days on the water. Great music, lively energy, definitely the local hangout.
The next morning, coffee in hand, I walked along the harbor. There aren’t many sidewalks here, but benches offer a front-row seat to watch captains prepping their boats. A drive up to Mt. Battie Memorial Tower capped our Camden stay. The World War I memorial offers sweeping coastal views, and climbing its spiral staircase makes you feel on top of the world. The view is breathtaking, and for $8 entry, it’s worth every penny. Fun fact: parts of the childhood classic Casper were filmed in Camden.
Friendship, Wiscasset & Onward
Next stop: Friendship, ME. A true working port town, lovely homes, quiet streets. The go-to here is Jameson Point Lobster Company, but it’s inland. Craving waterfront dining, we pressed on to Wiscasset. Beautiful, but may not be worth the added drive time if on a short schedule.
We had passed Wiscasset on our way to Bar Harbor and remarked at the “cuteness” of the town and crowds of people eating on umbrella-covered patios. So we were prepared on the drive back to make a pit stop for lunch.
While Red’s Eats is the icon, its lines are painfully long. We opted instead for Water Street Kitchen & Bar on the water. Black pepper lobster pasta with garlic bread? Heaven. Across the street, Sprague’s Lobster also had epic views but equally daunting lines.
Portland: Lobster, Music & Coastal Charm
Our last stop was Portland, a livelier and more urban stretch of the coast. Luke’s Lobster was a favorite, lobster caught fresh by their own boats, served on an open-air patio overlooking the harbor. Seagulls cawed, waves lapped, and it was one of the dreamiest meals of the trip. No reservations, just the perfect combination of fresh seafood, soft lighting, and salty air.
We also loved brunch at The Porthole, crab and lobster omelet with hollandaise, and the crispiest breakfast potatoes ever. Evenings meant hopping into Andy’s Old Port Pub for live bands (think Led Zeppelin, CCR, Rolling Stones), or sipping coffee at Porttown Public House just for the fun of it.
Our hotel, Regency Portland, gave us a spacious room with a king bed, couch, and patio within walking distance to everything. Not to mention a large sitting patio that we enjoyed wine on at night.
We even fit in outdoor yoga at Bud Light State Park, overlooking the water and lighthouse. $20 well spent for a memorable class with Greener Postures Yoga.
Portland is a harbor town through and through. The Harbor Fish Market sells seafood you can cook or ship home. Restaurants like Scales and Eventide come highly recommended, too. But one spot that really captured the spirit of Portland for me was Portland Lobster Co. It lured me in during one of my evening harbor walks with its lively music floating out over the water. Unlike much of Maine, which I’d noticed tends to be quieter and more laid-back, Portland Lobster Co. was buzzing with energy. One night, I found myself on their patio, umbrellas up, tourists and locals dancing along to the band, and snagged a bar seat to soak it all in. I sipped on blueberry seltzers while the crowd moved to the beat, and eventually decided this was the perfect dinner spot. Their twin lobster tails with corn on the cob and coleslaw did not disappoint. Portland was alive that night, and it gave me a whole new appreciation for the city’s vibrant harbor culture.
We also made a 30-minute day trip to Kennebunkport. The Bush family’s summer home, Walker’s Point, sits on a gated peninsula, but the drive alone is worth it, with stunning coastal mansions all the way. Middle Beach and Mothers Beach are seaglass-hunting favorites, though parking is restricted. Federal Jack’s was also recommended, but I skipped it this time.
Before leaving Portland, I snuck into Standard Baking Co., a locally recommended but almost hidden spot, for coffee and a walnut crisp. The perfect morning wake-me-up to walk the harbors and watch lobster boats pulling in for the day—the perfect sendoff.
What I Loved Most About Maine
- The people: friendly, genuine, and always smiling.
- The air: crisp, clean, and never fishy (even in busy harbors).
- The pace: peaceful, quiet, good for the soul.
Final Thoughts
Maine exceeded every expectation. The crisp breeze, friendly smiles, historic towns, sailboats, old forts, and hydrangea-filled gardens all feel timeless. It was a three-year dream realized, born during cancer treatments when my travel partner and I promised to eat lobster until we couldn’t anymore. And here we were.
So blessed. So fortunate.
With love and lobster,
Tiffany 🦞✨
