Italy, Day Four – Venice at Sunrise, Cappuccinos & One Last Dinner With Dad

It’s morning number two in Venice!

I’m finding that waking up every couple of hours to respond to work texts and emails is affecting my sleep just a smidge. But totally worth it. When you’re running a business and traveling, sometimes you have to find a way to make both work.

On my first full morning in Venice with Dad and Ann, I woke up extra early. Again, something that is wildly uncommon for me at home. I was out of bed and heading out the door at 6 a.m. with one goal in mind: sunrise at St. Mark’s Basilica.

I’d read online that seeing St. Mark’s Square at sunrise was something special, and since I’ve mentioned before that large crowds aren’t exactly my favorite, I figured 6 a.m. was the perfect time to go.

Rome and Venice had been our first two stops, and both were FULL of people. Beautiful places, but lots and lots of tourists. I found tourism in Italy increased in October versus my previous visiting month of March. So I decided I was going to get out early this lovely October morning and enjoy a little Venice on my own.

I threw on a sweater, pants, and a hat, grabbed my book (which at the time was Attached — highly recommend), and quietly made my way toward the door.

My plan was to be as quiet as possible so Dad wouldn’t wake up and decide to join me. Y’all know sometimes you just need a little roam time in Venice by yourself. 😂

Unfortunately, those old Italian door locks had other plans.

I have no idea what it is about some of these doors, but they can be surprisingly difficult to figure out. I was twisting, turning, pulling, pushing, and making an absolute racket, and I believe I broke a sweat in all of my fall attire. What should have taken a minute turned into approximately 15 minutes of me almost giving up.

I know, I know. Fortunately, I’m a Realtor and eventually figured it out. But I was about two seconds away from throwing my hands up, going back to bed, and forfeiting my real estate license over my inability to operate an Italian door lock.

Finally, I was free, and I could still hear Dad softly snoring in his room. Perfect.

Venice at 6 a.m.: A Completely Different City

There was hardly anyone out.

And St. Mark’s Basilica was absolutely stunning in the early morning light. The lights were still flickering against the marble exterior; the intricate statues and carvings seemed to stare back at me, and the enormous doors with art-covered arches above were something to stop and admire. To think that these doors were over 800 years old! Mind-blowing.

St. Mark’s Square, or Piazza San Marco, is enormous. Beautiful archways line the square, with shops and cafés tucked underneath them. Standing there so early in the morning, I could almost envision what it must have looked like hundreds of years ago, with the beautiful dresses, bustling activity, and people coming and going throughout the square.

I love things like this. Being somewhere that has been around for centuries and imagining what everyday life must have looked like back then.

I decided to walk down toward the water, which is just beside the square. There are two famous columns here, one topped with St. Theodore and the other with the winged Lion of Venice. Historically, this area was associated with public executions, and it is one of those little historical details that makes you look at a beautiful place a little differently.

Just nearby is the Doge’s Palace, another place I would absolutely book tickets to tour if I had more time. From the outside, it is impressive, but the interior looks absolutely incredible. The history, architecture, and artwork make it one of those places I would love to spend a few hours exploring. You can easily go online and select the time and day for your tour. Tickets were quite inexpensive, but I would recommend booking a bit in advance.

I decided to continue along the waterfront, heading southeast.

It was such a beautiful morning. A little chilly, a slight breeze, and hardly anyone around. I took a nice, slow walk instead of my usual rushed pace in Tulsa, Oklahoma.

And I watched.

I watched a fisherman pull his catch from the water, pigeons competing with seagulls for food, boats moving gently through the canals, and workers cleaning the walkways after the previous evening’s activity.

I eventually found a park bench and sat down for a while. I had brought a few crumbs from dinner the night before for the pigeons, which they seemed to appreciate very much.

I read. I breathed. I relaxed.

Just taking it all in. This was all new to me. Not only the view, but learning to be present and to breathe. I like to call it a practice, just like yoga or basketball. We practice so we can learn to be better at whatever the skill is. This was an awesome practice to start my last full morning in Venice.

The Little Souvenir from Venice I Never Expected to Find

While sitting there, I noticed a little white piece of paper on the ground. I reached down and turned it over. It was approximately 2-by-3 inches and had a beautiful colored drawing of the Rialto Bridge.

It almost looked like a photographer’s proof or a little piece of someone’s artwork.

I found another one. And then another.

Before I knew it, I had found six of these little drawings, which I quickly tucked into my journal as bookmarks and keepsakes.

What a cool little souvenir!

Not something I purchased in a gift shop, not something I planned to bring home, and certainly not something I could have searched for online. Just a little unexpected find on one of the most beautiful mornings of my trip.

I don’t know who made them or how they ended up there, but I’ll always remember finding them.

It’s interesting how some of the most memorable travel experiences aren’t the things you pay for or plan in advance. They’re the little moments that just happen when you slow down enough to notice them. I’m big into experiences versus tangible things you spend your money on. And this was a twofer in my opinion.

A quiet morning. On my own. Walking, exploring, and appreciating just how beautiful and unique Venice really is.

Oh, and I can’t forget the bells at St. Mark’s!

At 7 a.m., the bells began ringing, and I immediately pulled out my phone to record them so I could show you! It was one of those sounds that makes you stop what you’re doing and just listen. The combination of the bells, the early morning light, and the quiet streets was something special. To think this is a whole different country, and these bells have been ringing for hundreds and hundreds of years. It’s a special place, and the sunrise made it even more special.

Exploring Beyond the Tourist Areas

I decided to keep going.

I walked farther east, eventually making my way into an area that felt much more local. People passing by gave me a few curious looks, almost as if they were wondering what I was doing over there. Shouldn’t I be back in the tourist area?

But that’s exactly what I wanted to see.

There are beautiful residential areas and parks farther away from the main attractions, and I don’t think a lot of visitors make it that far. There is already so much to see around St. Mark’s, the Rialto Bridge, the main shopping streets (shopping in Venice is excellent), as well as the gondolas and so much more, that many people never venture beyond those areas.

I found one of the parks I’d saved on my map and spent some time walking around it. It was peaceful and tranquil, with a completely different feel from the busier parts of Venice.

I continued walking around and eventually got word that Dad was awake.

I had already decided to use Caffè Florian near St. Mark’s as our meeting point. Unfortunately, it didn’t open until 9 a.m., and since I still had some time, I wasn’t quite finished exploring.

So I kept wandering further into Venice to explore more of the locals’ lives and residential areas until it was time to meet at one of the oldest continually operating cafes in the world.

Caffè Florian: Espresso Served on a Silver Platter

At 9 a.m., I headed back toward St. Mark’s Square to meet Dad and Ann at Caffe Florian.

This was another little spot I had discovered through Instagram or TikTok, and it did not disappoint!

Established in 1720, Caffè Florian is one of the oldest cafés in the world. It sits beneath the beautiful arches of Piazza San Marco, and the entire place feels like stepping into another time. Walls adorned with gold trim from floor to ceiling, dark red velvet cushioned couches and chairs, white marble, and wooden tables. It was stunning!

We selected a bench closest to the front, which had an open window at the time overlooking the square. Here, we were served espresso and chocolate croissants as well as a delicious sandwich called “Toast Inverno” made with grilled vegetables, butter, basil pesto & turkey, on a beautiful silver platter served by waiters dressed almost like little butlers. It was such a beautiful experience, and I loved the attention to detail. 

The menu is extensive, especially when it comes to sweets and pastries. I spotted at least four things I swore I was coming back for later that evening.

Unfortunately, I never made that happen. Which is probably one of my biggest regrets from this particular morning. 😂

Is it an inexpensive coffee stop? No. You’re paying for the history, location, and experience, too. But I thought it was worth visiting at least once.

Travel tip: If you want to enjoy St. Mark’s Square without the enormous crowds, get there early in the morning. Then stop at Caffè Florian when it opens. Just be aware that historic cafés in this location can be considerably more expensive than a quick espresso at a neighborhood bar.

Fluffy Brunch: Because Dad

After our espresso stop, it was time to find Dad some breakfast, so we headed over to Fluffy Brunch.

If you’ve been on social media lately, you’ve probably seen the famous fluffy Japanese-style pancakes. They are tall, soft, almost cloud-like, and practically made for pictures.

Of course, we had to try them.

The restaurant was cute and quaint, and the pancakes were delightful. It was the perfect way to start the rest of our day exploring Venice.

Sometimes I stop and think about how lucky I am to even be able to say things like this. Having breakfast in Venice, wandering the streets, and getting to experience all of this with my dad.

Sigh.

I really can’t believe I get to do this. All of the hardships this life has brought are worth it to create memories and experiences like this day.

A Little Break at Moro Café & The Zattere Waterfront

Next we decided to walk. Of course. And I recommended we head to the Zattere Waterfront, which I had enjoyed when I was here in March, and I wanted to show my dad. It’s a beautiful waterfront stretch where you can walk along the water, watch the boats, and enjoy the restaurants and cafés that sit right along the edge of the canal.

There is also often a musician playing nearby, and hearing his music while wandering those beautiful streets makes the experience even more special, so I thought it was worth the walk to enjoy yet again.

I could have spent hours just walking along the waterfront, stopping for coffee, looking at the boats, and enjoying the scenery.

Venice has so many little areas like this that are worth exploring beyond the main attractions.

By this point though, Dad’s legs were beginning to remind us that he was nearly 70 years old.

So we decided to take a little break and stop at Moro Café, where we found a lovely garden patio and settled in for a while.

There was the most beautiful glass case filled with desserts, and we couldn’t resist ordering carrot cake and banana bread. We also enjoyed a delicious chocolate mocha coffee drink.

I had actually found this café through social media, and it was one of those places I was happy to have discovered. Unfortunately, I later heard that the café was closed and that something new was planned for the space. So if you’re reading this after the fact, make sure to check what is currently open before making the trip.

But the area itself is absolutely worth visiting.

One Last Dinner With Dad Before Sardinia

Dinner that evening was at the infamous Al Conte Pescaor. Earlier that day, I had made a decision. I was going to continue with my original plan to visit the island of Sardinia! Only, instead of heading to Olbia, I was switching to Cagliari. Olbia was hosting the “Aquabike World Championship” during my original planned stay, and I decided that was going to be too much of a crowd for me after Rome & Venice. 

I had been going back and forth about it, but I really wanted some sunshine, beautiful clear water, and a little time on my own. I had heard that Sardinia was a wonderful place to visit in October, so I decided to go for it.

But first, one last dinner with Dad before he headed off for the remainder of his 33-day Italian adventure.

He and Ann were heading to Florence, a city I had already spent four nights exploring on my solo trip in March. I’ll get into that trip in a future blog because there is plenty to share!

For our last dinner together in Venice, we wanted something that gave us a taste of Venetian cuisine.

And fish was the answer.

This restaurant has been around for decades, and we enjoyed fresh fish that was filleted and deboned right at our table. It was fascinating to watch. He did it so smoothly in one swift brush of his tool. I had no idea you could even do that! 

We enjoyed red snapper, which was the featured fish that evening, as well as sole, along with fresh vegetables and, of course, bread & wine.

I always find it interesting to learn what the traditional foods are in each city or region I’m visiting. In Rome, for example, carbonara is one of the dishes you really should try. That delicious combination of pasta, cheese, black pepper, and salty cured pork is a classic.

In Venice, seafood is a big part of the local food culture, which makes sense when you consider the city’s relationship with the lagoon and the Adriatic Sea.

One thing I have noticed about restaurants in Italy is that many don’t even open for dinner until around 7:30 p.m. It’s a very different schedule from what many Americans are accustomed to.

It’s funny how Americans tend to worry about eating too close to bedtime, while Italians are perfectly happy sitting down for a long dinner and finishing with a hot espresso.

They believe that espresso after a meal helps with digestion; we believe caffeine can affect our sleep that late at night. So I’ll leave that decision up to you on espresso in the evening or not, but I am now an espresso-after-my-meal kind of gal. 

We did make reservations for this restaurant in advance that day. Even in October, we noticed several restaurants were completely booked, so I would recommend planning ahead if you have a particular place in mind.

And Just Like That… I’m Off to Sardinia!

Now for the next adventure.

I had decided that I wanted to fly from Venice to Cagliari, on the island of Sardinia. I had been looking at flights through Expedia and Booking.com to compare options, and eventually downloaded the Ryanair app to book my flight.

I was looking for warmth, sunshine, and clear blue water. And from everything I had been reading, Sardinia was a wonderful place to visit in October.

I also booked my airport boat transportation online the night before.

Now, this is where traveling solo and figuring out transportation in another country can get a little interesting.

My flight was at 9:30 a.m., which meant I needed to catch one of the very early morning boats from Venice to the airport. I had my luggage, my flight to catch, and a whole new set of transportation logistics to figure out.

I purchased my ticket through the Alilaguna app, which cost approximately €18. The ride took around 45 minutes to an hour, depending on the route and stops.

One thing I learned quickly is that Venice has several different boat stops and routes, so make sure you’re selecting the correct departure point and the correct airport route. Don’t just assume every boat is headed in the direction you need to go.

The boat system is actually pretty wild. When you look at your Apple Maps directions, you’ll see the different routes across the water, almost like a bus system, except you’re navigating canals and the lagoon instead of streets.

I really do enjoy seeing cities from different perspectives, from land, air, and sea if possible! So this was another experience I was happy to add to the list, as long as all went smoothly. 

The only downside was that we were packed into the lower part of the wooden boat for this ferry, sitting knee-to-knee with everyone else and our luggage for the ride to the airport.

Not exactly luxurious, but we made it, and I was able to watch the sunrise from the boat windows amongst other excited, smiling travelers heading to the airport. Just like that, I was at the airport, bags in tow, right on time.

Next Stop: Sardinia!

Before I left, I had one more thing to take care of.

I needed somewhere to stay.

I had actually snagged an Airbnb the day before my flight, so don’t worry, I wasn’t heading to an island with absolutely nowhere to sleep. I had that part covered.

But now I was officially leaving Dad and Ann, heading off on my own again, and starting a completely different part of my Italian adventure.

I had loved my time in Rome and Venice with Dad. Getting to experience those places together, share meals, explore the history, and make memories was something I will always appreciate.

But I was also excited to have a little time to myself.

I wanted sunshine. I wanted the beach. I wanted to explore somewhere new, and I was ready to see what Sardinia had in store.

So off I went, solo again.

And if you think Venice was beautiful, just wait until you see where I ended up next.

Ciao for now!❤️