Day Two in Rome – Cappuccinos, the Vatican, Trastevere & A Little More Gelato

Day One was about getting to Rome, settling in, and getting reacquainted with the city; Day Two was about doing a little exploring, eating our way through Rome, and figuring out just how much walking my dad’s nearly 70-year-old body was willing to tolerate. 😂

I woke up in the nice, cool basement of our Airbnb in Monti to the sound of my dad and his friends moving around upstairs. It’s funny how I can be someone who loves to sleep in at home, but put me in another country, and suddenly I’m wide awake and excited to get moving.

No massive to-do list. No appointments. No real schedule to keep. Just me, my dad, and another day in Rome.

Breakfast at Coromandel: Dad’s Omelette Mission

First order of business? Find breakfast.

We searched for a spot with great reviews and landed on Coromandel. I used the Free Now app to call a taxi, which I highly recommend downloading before your trip. It makes getting around so much easier, especially when you’re not familiar with the city. Uber still works, but I typically compare the rates, with Free Now winning; also, in some cities, Free Now may be your only option. Our ride was around €25 and took us over toward the river for breakfast to save our legs for exploring later.

Now, if you’ve traveled with my dad (or follow him on social media), you know he has his food routines. He goes through phases. Sometimes it’s oatmeal, sometimes chicken and chicken sausage, and currently, it’s omelettes. He is on a mission to find a good omelette wherever he goes.

Finding an omelette in Italy is a little more challenging than you might think. Italians generally don’t do the big American-style breakfast. A typical morning might be a quick espresso or cappuccino and a pastry, often eaten standing at the counter, before heading off to start the day. Lunch is a much bigger deal, sometimes lasting between 2 and 3.5 hours, and dinner is an event of its own but typically not as eventful as lunch.

But Dad likes his rituals, and apparently I have developed a new appreciation for breakfast while traveling, too. So an omelette it was!

I ordered a cinnamon and honey cappuccino along with fresh brioche French toast, eggs, and bacon. And because we’re in Italy, I couldn’t pass up a cornetto al cioccolato (chocolate croissant), either. It was exactly what I wanted. Apparently, I’m embracing the Italian breakfast lifestyle one cappuccino and pastry at a time.

Coromandel was quaint, cozy, and full of character. There was a little wait, but it was worth it. I loved the details: the cutest plates and cups, antique furnishings, and walls and shelves covered in books. It felt like one of those little places you stumble upon and immediately want to tell someone else about.

A little Italy tip: I always make a point to order water with my meals. When you’re walking as much as you do in Italy, sightseeing, and spending hours outside, it’s easy to get out of your normal hydration routine. At home, I’m used to keeping water in my car and drinking plenty throughout the day. When traveling, I don’t always have that luxury, so I usually order a bottle with lunch and dinner.

You’ll often be asked whether you want naturale (still water) or frizzante (sparkling water). Italians love their fizzy mineral water. I, on the other hand, am firmly on Team Still Water. A bottle usually runs around €2–€4, depending on where you are.

A Walk Toward the Vatican

After breakfast, we decided to head toward Vatican City and enjoy a nice walk.

One of my favorite things about walking around Rome is that you never know what you’ll come across. As we crossed the river, there were beautiful statues lining the bridge, music playing, and incredible views in every direction. It was one of those walks where you don’t necessarily need a destination because the scenery is the destination.

As we walked, we were also passing through the Ponte neighborhood, which is another area of Rome I had looked at when researching Airbnb options. I had almost booked a place here, and I was curious to see what it was like in person. It’s a beautiful area, with charming streets, historic buildings, and easy access to many of Rome’s main attractions. We didn’t spend much time exploring it this go-around, but it was nice to at least get a feel for the neighborhood. It’s definitely one I’d keep on my list for a future stay.

Now, here’s where our very relaxed, somewhat unplanned itinerary came into play.

We had not booked tickets for the Vatican Museums. We were just going to walk around and see what we could see. And let me tell you, from what we observed, if you do not have a ticket or reservation, you could be waiting a VERY long time.

The lines were unbelievable. We saw what appeared to be an enormous line stretching around the Vatican, along with another line for people who had reservations. It was a good reminder that some of the most popular attractions in Rome really do need planning.

Travel tip: If visiting the Vatican Museums is on your list, book your tickets ahead of time. Don’t assume you can simply show up and walk right in. You can check ticket information directly through the official Vatican Museums website.

We decided to skip the lines and just walk around the outside. We made it about halfway around the Vatican, which is a little more walking than you might expect. And, for the most part, you’re looking at a very large wall.

I found myself thinking about the history of those walls and how the Vatican was designed to protect and separate its own little community. It is interesting to see how a place so central to the world has such a distinct boundary around it. I had a few thoughts about walls, borders, and who gets to come in, but I’ll save the political commentary for another day. 😂

We enjoyed the walk, took in what we could, and then reality started setting in.

My dad is nearly 70, and after two weeks of traveling before I even arrived, his hips, knees, and pretty much every other part of him were beginning to remind us that we weren’t exactly on a leisurely stroll anymore.

Our goal had been to see the Vatican area and then make our way over to Trastevere. Rather than finish the entire loop around the Vatican, we decided to call another taxi. It was around €20 to get over to Trastevere, and at that point, I think we were all happy to give our feet a break.

Trastevere: A Little People-Watching & A Chocolate Mocha

If you haven’t heard of Trastevere, it’s one of Rome’s most charming neighborhoods, known for its narrow cobblestone streets, little piazzas, restaurants, and lively atmosphere. I had wanted to see it, even if we only had time for a quick visit.

We settled into a little café in one of the piazzas and ordered a chocolate mocha cappuccino. There is certainly no shortage of cafés in this area, and it was the perfect place to sit for a while.

I loved watching everyone come and go. There were groups of people rotating through the little tables on the covered patio, and more than a few influencers taking photos and videos of their surroundings. You know the ones, dressed insanely well, wearing skinny little stilettos, and looking like they haven’t walked more than 20 feet all day. 😂 One thing it took me a little while to figure out about Italy is that you should not even attempt those kinds of shoes if you’re planning to do any real walking. Rome, Florence, or pretty much anywhere with cobblestone streets will humble you pretty quickly!

They’re carefully arranging their coffee, adjusting their outfits, and getting that perfect shot. I always find it entertaining to watch. And I also find myself a little embarrassed because, well, here I am doing the exact same thing so I can share it all with you. The irony is not lost on me.

Trastevere is beautiful, and I can see why it’s such a popular place to stay and spend an evening. I imagine it has a completely different energy at night, with the restaurants and bars filling up and people spilling into the piazzas.

Since I was traveling with my dad, we were keeping things a little more relaxed. We wanted to see the area, get a feel for it, and then move on. I would absolutely consider spending more time there on another trip.

The Oldest Church in Rome… Or So We Thought!

On our way back, we decided to try to visit the church I had read about, which I understood to be the oldest church in Rome.

One thing worth knowing when visiting churches in Italy is that modest dress is expected. Many churches require shoulders to be covered and shorts or skirts to reach the knees. It’s always a good idea to bring a scarf or something you can throw over your shoulders, especially if you plan to visit several churches in one day.

I, of course, was not properly dressed for the occasion.

So what did I do? I spotted a clothing stand directly across from the church, popped in, and purchased a cute little knit dress for around €25. I figured I could throw it over my pants and shirt and be ready to go.

Problem solved!

Except… we got to the entrance and discovered the church wasn’t open.

Of course it wasn’t. 😂

So now I had a €25 dress I hadn’t planned on buying, even less carry-on luggage space, and no church visit to show for it. At least I had a souvenir, right?

Travel tip: Check church opening hours before making a special trip. Some churches have limited visiting hours, religious services, or closures during the day. And if you plan to visit several, dress appropriately from the start. It will save you a last-minute shopping trip!  

One More Rome Stop: The Mouth of Truth

On our way back across the river from Trastevere, we also passed by the famous Bocca della Verità, or Mouth of Truth. If you’ve never heard of it, it’s an ancient marble face with an opening for your hand. According to legend, if you put your hand inside and tell a lie, it will bite your hand off!

Apparently, quite a few people were willing to put that theory to the test because there was a surprisingly long line of people waiting for their turn. I found it pretty entertaining. It’s a little like the kissing stone in Ireland (The Blarney Stone), except instead of getting the gift of eloquence, you might potentially lose a limb. 😂

Dinner at Ristorante Pancrazio: Eating Above Ancient Rome

After walking around, we headed back and spent a little time visiting with Dad’s friend. Naturally, the conversation eventually turned to the next important question: Where are we eating?

I swear, one of the main activities in Italy is eating a meal while planning your next meal. And I’m not complaining.

For dinner, we headed to Ristorante Pancrazion in the Campo de’ Fiori area. We took a taxi again, partly because Dad had already accumulated quite a step count, and partly because we were all ready to enjoy the evening without adding another long walk.

This restaurant is especially interesting because it sits on the remains of the ancient Theater of Pompey. The theater was dedicated in 55 BC and was the first permanent stone theater in Rome. The restaurant has dining rooms built into the archaeological remains, giving it a very unique, almost cave-like atmosphere.

I had been looking forward to seeing the interior, but we hadn’t made a reservation. So we took the table that was available outside.

And honestly, it turned out to be a beautiful evening.

We had a lovely table in the square, with a cello player providing the background music. There was something about the setting, the music, and the atmosphere that made dinner feel especially Roman.

I would have loved to eat inside the old theater, but that’s a good reminder that some of these unique restaurants are worth booking ahead of time. You can learn more about the restaurant and its history at Ristorante Pancrazio’s website.

Now, let’s get to the food.

We ordered fresh rigatoni carbonara, a filet with roasted potatoes, bruschetta with tomatoes and basil and stretchy cheese, and crispy bread topped with a little spinach. There were plenty of things to share, which is one of my favorite ways to eat when traveling with a group.

The carbonara was rich and delicious, with that salty, cured pork adding just the right amount of flavor and crunch. If you haven’t tried traditional Roman carbonara, it’s worth ordering. It is typically made with eggs, Pecorino Romano cheese, black pepper, and guanciale (cured pork cheek), rather than a cream-based sauce, and is a Roman dish that is just a must-try.

I also enjoyed a local red wine. One thing I’ve noticed in Italy is that wine can be surprisingly affordable, and I’ve found some really good local options without spending much.

There is something special about having dinner in a place where you’re literally surrounded by thousands of years of history. You can be sitting at a table enjoying pasta and wine, and just beneath you are the remains of an ancient Roman theater.

Only in Rome!

The Lemon Dessert I Had Been Eyeing All Day 🍋

After dinner, we decided we weren’t quite finished for the evening. Just a short walk away was a place called Limon’è, and I had been eyeing their lemon desserts earlier in the day.

At one point, I had seen the cutest group of ladies walking around with these giant lemon-shaped treats in their hands and the biggest smiles on their faces. I remember thinking, I need to find out where they got those!

Well, we found it.

We ordered lemon and mandarin sorbet served inside a fresh, hollowed-out lemon. It was adorable, completely Italian, and exactly what I had hoped it would be.

And was it as good as I expected?

Oh, yes. It absolutely was.

The combination of the tart lemon and mandarin was refreshing, and the presentation was just as fun as the dessert itself. It was around €8–€10 for the two scoops, depending on the serving, and worth every bit of it.

This is one of those little travel experiences that may seem silly, but it’s the kind of thing I love finding. It’s not a major landmark or a must-see historical site. It’s just a fun little treat that makes you smile and gives you another reason to love being somewhere new.

If you see one of these while you’re in Rome, go get it. You can thank me later.

And Now… Where Are We Going Tomorrow?

By this point, we had officially worn ourselves out. I think my dad’s nearly 70-year-old body had reached its limit for the day, and honestly, mine wasn’t far behind.

We headed back to the Airbnb, and while we were winding down, we started doing what we had apparently decided was our new travel routine: researching where we were going next.

Venice was looking like the next stop.

Remember, I was going along with Dad’s plan of not booking everything in advance. This is a little outside my normal comfort zone. I like to know where I’m sleeping, what time I’m leaving, and preferably have a few backup options just in case.

We had narrowed down a few hotels and Airbnb options, but nothing was officially booked yet.

And here’s the thing about traveling this way: checkout is usually around 10 or 11 a.m., you have to figure out how to get to the train station, purchase your train tickets, and make sure you have somewhere to stay when you arrive. It’s not exactly the most relaxing way to plan a travel day, at least not for someone like me.

I went to bed hoping that by the time I woke up, Dad would have selected a place for us to stay in Venice.

Would he? Would we be rushing around trying to book something at the last minute? And would I survive another day of spontaneous travel planning?

You’ll have to come back for Day Three to find out.

For now, that’s a wrap on Day Two in Rome. We saw a little more of the city, enjoyed some wonderful food, discovered a few places I’d happily return to, and made another memory together.

And tomorrow… we’re off to Venice!